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Wednesday, April 30, 2025

72 Hours in Seville, Spain — April 27-30 (Part 1)

Charms of the City

By Laurel

Seville charmed us!  With its elegant old buildings, wrought-iron railings and gates, pretty squares full of tapas bars and sidewalk cafes, green parks, as well as courtyards and narrow streets, what was not to like?  While there, we joined the locals and tourists bustling about and enjoying the city’s offerings:  delicious tapas, wine, window-shopping, history, and flamenco.  In particular, we wandered the Plaza de Espana, toured the ancient Roman site of Italica, sun-tanned at a bullfight, and were mesmerized by passionate flamenco performers (more about these below).  I suggested Jim get his hair cut by the Barber of Seville, but he said his hair is still too short.  


Spain was featured in international news during our stay, as it experienced a major country-wide power outage for several hours on April 28 (along with Portugal and part of southern France).  It was a weird thing to observe — the outage hit suddenly at about noon and people in our area stayed out and about and sitting in sidewalk cafes; everyone remained calm while chatting to each other, since no one could be on their cell phones/internet.  Waiters served drinks and sandwiches to cash customers.  We had planned to visit museums, but of course they were closed due to the power outage.  Thankfully, the lights came back on in our apartment at 5:30 pm; other streets came on variously.  Most of the country’s electricity was restored within 18 hours.




Plaza de la Encarnacion affectionately known as “The Mushrooms”, is a market that attracts  locals and travelers alike.









































A countrywide power outage left restaurants closed while cooks and waitstaff watch optimistic customers line up




María Luisa Park and Plaza de España


By Jim


On our first morning in Seville, we got an early start, grabbed some coffee at Bar La Niños, and headed out along the Guadalquivir River to find María Luisa Park and Plaza de España.


María Luisa Park was originally part of the gardens of the Palace of San Telmo. The park was donated to the city in 1893 and is an impressive green space for locals and visitors alike. Spanning over 84 acres, the park features beautiful gardens, fountains, tiled benches, monuments, and architectural landmarks.


There are several notable landmark buildings within María Luisa Park, including the Seville Public Library, the Science Centre, and many pavilions built for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929.


Also constructed for the Exhibition, Plaza de España is an architectural masterpiece located at the southern end of the park.  The plaza showcases a beautiful blend of Renaissance Revival and Moorish architectural styles. It has been featured in movies such as "Lawrence of Arabia" and "Star Wars."


Spanning 50,000 square meters, the semi-circular plaza includes ornate buildings, a beautiful central fountain, and an oval grand canal with picturesque tiled bridges. The buildings feature colorful azulejo tiles, representing the different provinces of Spain.


Our early start gave us an exclusive walk through the park and some great photos of Plaza de España. By the time we decided to leave, the tour buses had arrived, and the plaza was filling with tourists and souvenir vendors.


Cafe con leche and cafe doblo, our morning fuel


The Guadalquivir River has a well-developed promenade leading to Maria Luisa Park



María Luisa Park contains many pavilions built for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 including Plaza de Espana




Plaza de España



Mudejar Pavilion,  it currently houses the Museum of Popular Arts and Customs


























Saturday, April 26, 2025

Stage 12 — April 26: Luz to Lagos (14 km)



21°C — Clear and windy


By Jim


I am a sucker for a free breakfast!  So there we were, at 8:00 am, lined up at a buffet with twenty middle-aged Germans when we should already have be an hour down the road.  It was going to be a hot day and the earlier we finish walking, the better, but on the other hand … a hot breakfast?


We made our way to the trailhead at Luz Beach to begin our final stage of the Fishermen’s Trail.  A speckless sky, blazing sun, and a cool sea breeze would be our companions all day.  Unfortunately, so would packs of day walkers whose numbers increased tenfold as we neared the resort town of Lagos.  When we began our trek eleven days ago, beaches were empty except for vagabond surfers and storks patrolled the cliffs.  Now we were part of a throng of humanity; walkers,  tourists, and Instagrammers all drawn to these seascapes of extraordinary beauty. 


When we arrived in Lagos we were hungry and exhausted.










Friday, April 25, 2025

Stage 11 — April 25: Salema to Luz (14 km)




22°C — Windy, sunny, some clouds

By Laurel


We splurged last night and stayed in a suite in a resort with our own rooftop terrace, balcony, and patio (yes, all three) looking out over the sea.  What a view!  The suite was fully equipped, which of course included a washing machine, so we got our clothes properly laundered.  What luxury!


And talk about luxury — we passed by huge, beautiful coastal villas, one after another.  In between the developed sections were unspoiled beaches, rocky hills, and shoreline cliffs.


Wind was a blessing and a curse today.  As we walked, it kept us cooled to just the right temperature, however, when our trail ventured near to the cliff edges it caused me to wonder if I could possibly be blown off into the sea.  Actually, I’m exaggerating as the wind was not as strong as that and my backpack kept me weighed down; nevertheless, I stuck as much as I could to the left hand side of the trail at all times and, thankfully, little of today’s route was cliff side.


One more day of walking and we’ll reach Lagos, the end of the Fishermen’s Trail.