Stage 2: April 15 - Vila Nova de Milfontes to Almograve (10 km)

16°C—Sunny with intermittent cloud, rain in late afternoon

by Jim

Although today was to be only 15 km, our guidebook encouraged us to shorten it by taking a local family-run boat taxi across the Rio Mira, thereby cutting about three and a half km off our day.  We inadvertently saved an additional one and a half kilometers by foregoing the trail and detouring along the beach as far as possible.  The tide was out, inviting us to delay joining the trail.  We felt special on this exclusive route below the throng of walkers trodding the cliffs of the Rota Vicentina (Fishermen’s Trail FT) high above.  Rejoining the trail proved challenging.  Fortunately, some thoughtful souls had installed ropes to aid our steep ascent.

Up top, we merged with the steady stream of ramblers heading in both directions along the FT.  We have not seen this many walking enthusiasts since the Camino Francés in 2016.

Our day was brilliant!  The beaches, cliffs, ocean vistas, flowers and birds enlivened the pages of our guide.  Arriving in Almograve at 1:30 we had a delicious fish lunch and then a wild goose chase to find my lost walking pole, that I had left on a bench in the town square.  Alas, it stayed lost!  Our hosts at Marmequer Guest House provided three bottles of Portuguese liquor that helped me let go of my stick.  We hatched a plan to get an early start for tomorrow’s 22 km with two other guests, Hannah and Britta, a German mother and daughter couple.

A hearty breakfast of carbs and caffeine.

A boat taxi shortened an already short day.

Jim is but a dot on the expansive beach.

We had much of the beach to ourselves.

Getting back to the trail was a challenge.

The trail was well trodden with Germans, Brits, and Portuguese (and two Canadians).

The trail was also well marked.

Wild flowers were both vibrant and abundant.

Our reward at the end of the trail.