Stage 9 — April 23: Vila do Bispo to Sagres (18 km)

19°C — Full sun (no shade or cloud) with some sea breeze

By Laurel

-First half:  from town back out to the coast on a flat country road through green fields and pastures, which then transitioned to shrubs and abundant wildflowers in showy colours

-Second segment:  now back at the coast, sandy/rocky cliff side paths, but mostly away from the edge and with only one up/down section; stunning coastal views

-Third portion:  the lighthouse and old fort at Cabo de Sao Vicente

-Final stretch:  we had maxed out on sun exposure, so arranged a taxi ride from the cape into town (6 kms)

Cape St. Vincent is the southwestern most point of mainland Europe.  Looking out from the cape on this fine sunny day, the blue, blue water appeared to go on forever, beyond the far horizon.  I don’t know how sailors of yore would have felt as their ships moved away from the familiar shore to the vast ocean, but I know I would have been full of trepidation.  

We discovered the story of St. Vincent during yesterday’s museum tour.  He was martyred in Valencia, Spain, in 304 AD, as ordered by the Roman Emperor Diocletian.  His body was abandoned in a field, where crows protected it, until the Roman soldiers tied it to a millstone and threw it into the sea — but it floated to shore!  His followers then buried the body in the Valencia Cathedral and referred to him as “invincible.”  (If you are familiar with the story of St. James, you might notice some similarity.)  Four hundred years later, the Muslims were invading Spain, so the relics of St. Vincent were moved to Portugal to the cape that today bears his name.  In 1173, the King of Portugal ordered the bones moved to Lisbon on a boat guarded by two ravens.  A finger bone remains in the church in Vila do Bispo, but we did not see it.

St. Vincent is the patron saint of winemakers.  One day he was chatting with a vineyard owner and, unnoticed, his donkey nibbled at the new vine shoots — lo and behold, later in the season, that year’s crop was particularly good.  Such began the practice of pruning the vines each year.  In honour of St. Vincent, we shall drink some wine with supper.