72 Hours in Córdoba, Spain — May 3 - 6 (Part 1)

Arrival

By Jim

Halfway through a Spanish national long weekend, we exchanged the crowds of Granada for the throngs of Córdoba.  The Dia de la Cruces festivities were well underway when we walked from the Córdoba train station to our apartment in the San Pedro neighborhood.  Every church square we passed was decorated with a floral cross, a display of memorabilia like guitars, typewriters, phonographs, etc. and a bar kiosk with Cerveza Cruzcampo, a regional beer, on tap.  

After shedding our packs and doing some laundry, we headed out into the narrow streets to see the sights along with everyone else.  There were crowds everywhere making navigation a challenge and finding a table at a bar or restaurant was mission (nearly) impossible.  We walked along the Guadalquivir River and found Puente Romano — a beautifully preserved ancient Roman bridge that offers a great vantage point to view the city.  While there, we scoped out the location of the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, a mosque-turned-cathedral that showcases a unique blend of Islamic and Christian architecture and we made arrangements for a guided tour tomorrow morning.  

On our way back home, our path was intercepted and blockaded by a parade of Catholic youth complete with a marching band, children playing with fire (lit candles), and a levitating paso topped with a cross.  The parade stalled right in front of us. While the band members had a smoke and the kids made candle wax sculptures, we discovered that the floating paso was carried by a cadre of teenagers hidden under a curtain.

We were able to backtrack to a side street and stopped at a bar/restaurant.  They gave us a table at the intersection of the bar, kitchen, till, and bathroom.  We ordered paella and a glass of vino blanco.  By the time our wine was delivered, the waiter had trouble reaching the table because we were surrounded by a huddle of patrons waiting to use the toilet.  All in all, it was “an unpleasant experience” as Laurel later wrote in her one star review.

The Roman Bridge and view of Córdoba from the other side

8

Puerta del Puente (Top) and Calahorra Tower (Bottom)  bookend the Roman Bridge

Molina de la Albolafia is a water mill along the Guadalquivir River

Dia de la Cruces parade

Dia de la Cruces parade

The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba

By Laurel

We had overarching curiosity about the Mezquita — how could a gothic Catholic Cathedral possibly be integrated into an ancient Islamic mosque? To find out, we eagerly joined a tour of the structure led by a local archeologist.  It was a fascinating and educational visit, as we walked through and learned about the history of this amazing and unique building.  The original mosque was built in 785, after the Moors had moved into Spain from North Africa, and was expanded numerous times until it became an area of 23,400 square meters — equivalent to four and a half football fields.  

The roof is supported by lines of two-tiered arches resting on columns, 850 of which remain today.  On many columns, foundation blocks, and paving stones one can clearly see the chiseled markings of individual carvers, their “invoices” for payment for work completed.  Many of the original Moorish carvings, inscriptions, and mosaics are still in place.  Upon reaching the central area of the massive building, one suddenly enters the cathedral — a beautifully built church with pale-coloured marble walls soaring above the ancient mosque area all around.  It was constructed in the 1500s after the Christians had defeated the Muslims; the entire building was consecrated as a Christian church and never again used as a mosque.  It is quite impossible to adequately describe the whole place; hopefully, our photos will give a clue.

A forest of pillars covering an area over four football fields in size

Quarry marks or carver’s symbols found on pillars and pavers in and around the the Mezquita.  These identified craftmen’s work so they could be paid

Transition from Mosque area to the Cathedral