72 Hours in Granada, Spain — April 30–May 3 (Part 1)

The Alhambra

By Jim

Almost two hundred years ago, it took the American writer, Washington Irving, several days to travel by horseback from Seville to Granada.   The trip was arduous and fraught with danger. Irving needed an armed guide to protect him from bandits. Spain has changed since then.  Laurel and I made the same trip safely by train in two and a half hours! 

Granada, a city of 230,000 people (one million in its metropolitan area), is known for many things such as its University (founded in 1531), Cathedral, and flamenco dancing, but none more notable than the Alhambra. It was our trip’s purpose, as it was Irving’s.  Dating back to 1238, the Alhambra is a stunning palace and fortress complex perched on a hill above Granada.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Spain's most famous historical and architectural landmarks.

Irving’s sojourn in Granada and at the Alhambra in the 1800s led him to write Tales of the Alhambra.  The book’s success brought world attention to the mystery, beauty, and decaying condition of what he call an “elegant pile”— tourism and restoration followed.  So in a certain way, today we can attribute our ability to marvel at the Alhambra to Washington Irving (a 19th century influencer?).

Even with all the hype, we could not have been more impressed.  First of all, its size and location — the hilltop Alhambra complex, including the Generalife Palace and Gardens, is an expansive 35 acres framed by the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains off in the distance.

We booked tickets for early morning and clocked four hours/14 kms exploring the Islamic gardens, monuments, battlements, and palaces.  Our favourite sections were the Court of the Lions in the Nasrid Palaces, the Palace of Carlos V, and the Generalife Gardens.  From up high on the lookout towers of the Alcazaba Fortress, the stunning views of the adjacent Albayzín neighborhood invited us to explore its labyrinth of narrow streets on our second full day in Granada.

Snow-capped Sierra Nevadas frame the Alhambra 

Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra brought world attention to this elegant palace fortress

The palace of Carlos V, a Christian Renaissance addition to the Islamic Alhambra 

The Nasrid Palace was our favourite part of Alhambra

Every detail of the Nasrid Palace and Gardens spoke of mystery and elegance 

Court of the Lions in the Nasrid Palaces

Torre de los Picos (Tower of the  Peaks)

Gardens of Generalife Palace

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The Alcazaba fortress was built between 1238 and 1358.  The foundations of the barracks  resemble a maze today.  The view of the Albayzin neighbourhood invited us to visit.