The Camino, Stage 6 — June 3, 2025: Granja de Moreruela to Tabara (27 km)

13 - 20°C — Thick dark clouds but no rain

By Jim

I crept down the stairs to the kitchen at 5:00 am to find Guy, a French pilgrim, already drinking espresso and watching Paris local news on his phone.  I made some toast and a large mocha pot of coffee before Laurel came down for breakfast.  When we left the hostel, the street was alive with pilgrims from the Albergue across the street.  We fell into formation behind half a dozen people we had served as hospitaleros in Zamora.  

Along the stage we were passed by Frank, a Dutch soldier, four months away from retirement and on his first Camino.  We did manage to overtake a few pilgrims ourselves:  Yuric from Switzerland, Antonio from Spain, and Martina from the Netherlands.  We had met them all in Zamora so it was nice to pick up where we had left off.

The trail changed immediately as we left Granja de Moreruela.  The meseta gave way to grassy hills of oak and the path meandered rather than its straight and narrow route of the past three days.  The cloudy skies of dawn built through the morning and by 10:00 when we stopped for cafe con leche, rain looked probable.  Martina entertained us with stories of her sojourn in Merida Albergue recovering from a foot injury and assisting the hospitalero.

The rain held off until after we had registered at the Municipal Albergue in Tabara two hours later.  The h ospitalero recognized Laurel’s voluntaria pendant and was pleased to check us in.  Lunch was another kilometer back to town and I wish I could say it was worth it.  Back at the albergue, a cold shower reminded me of the hospitalero’s warning that only one shower delivered hot water.

Siesta in the dormitory is peaceful, giving time for this reflection.

The trail quickly transformed from the meseta to rolling hills

Martina and Antonio, two pilgrims that we met as hospitaleros in Zamora and now walk with as pilgrims ourselves

The Albergue de Peregrinos in Tabera operates on pilgrim donations and grants.  The Canadian Company of Pilgrim provided funding for new chairs and a pellet stove