14 - 27°C — Blue skies
By Jim
Today’s stage had both elevation and distance, so we wasted little time with packing and breakfast and hit the trail at 5:40. The first km was well lit as we walked through the streets of Lubian and out the other side of town. However, the next half hour required our headlamp to light the way.
Our elevations started immediately after passing the Sanctuary of the Tuiza located under the viaduct of the A-52 motorway. The church was originally located in Calvados area and moved stone by stone in the 18th century to its present location.
The climb of over 400 meters was on a treed trail of dirt and stone with periodic sections of mud. We met Frank and Kim (from Korea) along the way but didn’t stop until we reached the top of the Alto da Canda pass at the entrance to Galicia. Water and a snack and we continued on the path, now sod and dirt with a gentle decline.
Our first chance, and only chance, for a coffee break today was at Vilavella (11 km). Unfortunately, the only bar is closed on Mondays and today was Monday. Fortunately last night while reading the maps, Laurel had located a Cespa gas station a kilometer from town but only 200 meters off the Camino. So after crossing a steep field of cut hay and traversing a quiet back yard undetected, we found ourselves sipping cafe con leche and dining on stale gas station donuts.
Except for the last 2 km, the rest of the trail was Galicia at its best. However, when we arrived at A Gudiña we were at our worst — hot, thirsty, and tired. Pocket Earth guided us efficiently to the Albergue de Peregrinos former location. We trudged back to town where we met Yuric and together found the new location. I am happy to report that the new Albergue de Peregrinos exceeds our expectations in every respect.
Finally on my home computer and able to post comments. Amazingly enough it was also a Monday when we walked through Vilavella in search of lunch (we didn't get started as early as you did). There was nothing in O Pereiro either. So like you, we did a little detour back to the highway and found a great and very busy truck stop restaurant, El Calzador, for a full three-course meal. Glad to hear there's a new albergue in A Gudina; I recall it was a rather charmless town, though it did have a 24-hour truck stop where we got dinner. Tomorrow if you've opted for the route through Laza you'll have a long-ish day, but a beautiful walk along a high ridge (no services though) and then, if you go as far as As Eiras, along a forested road. Laza is a nice town. Good coffee and desayuno at La Picota.
ReplyDeleteYes, two or three times now we’ve thanked our lucky stars for a well-placed gas station with coffee bar or restaurant in it! I wouldn’t have predicted that, but there you are! We had a good but long hot walk today and have stopped at As Eiras for the night.
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